Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Train Ride through Southeast Asia

What inspired me to travel to Southeast Asia? It all began with a website called Seat61.com. Back in 2006, I was teaching English in China and wanted to ride the Trans-Siberian Express from Beijing to Moscow. While browsing the site, I found this map:

I noticed a train route that started in Bangkok and went all the way down to the tip of Singapore, with stops in Butterworth (Penang) and Kuala Lumpur. I looked up the total price and was shocked to find that it only cost $62.00. I was set. I knew, no matter what the circumstances were or where I was in life, at some point, I had to embark on this train journey. The chance to take a scenic train ride through Southeast Asia for a measly $62.00? I am sooooo there.

It took several years of patience and fortuitous timing, but I finally seized my chance this past summer. Once I made the decision to go, I started to actively plan for my trip.   

As noted, the train ride from Bangkok to Singapore is actually divided into three parts, so I had to individually purchase three train tickets. I bought each ticket using the links referred below:

1. Bangkok --> Butterworth (Penang) - $35, 2nd class sleeper - http://www.thairailticket.com/esrt/Default.aspx
2. Butterworth (Penang) --> Kuala Lumpur -  $14, 2nd class sleeper - https://intranet.ktmb.com.my/e-ticket/login.aspx
3. Kuala Lumpur --> Singapore - $13, 2nd class sleeper  - https://intranet.ktmb.com.my/e-ticket/login.aspx

If you want more details, click here: http://www.seat61.com/Thailand.htm#Singapore

Additional Notes:
#1: I actually purchased my ticket through a travel agency called thailandtrainticket.com, but when I clicked on the site, there were reports of malware. It's better to purchase through Thai Rail anyways since they're the  operating train company, and you can print your ticket from home. When I used Thailand Train Ticket, the agency delivered the ticket to my hotel in Bangkok for free. It was convenient, but I was worried my ticket wasn't ever going to arrive.

#2-3: I selected 'Sentral Kuala Lumpur' as the main train station to arrive and depart from Kuala Lumpur.

Now to the fun part - what was the train journey like?
The train ride from Bangkok to Butterworth was scenic but looooooong. When I arrived at Bangkok's Hualamphong station, I was a bit overwhelmed.


The train terminal seemed to have endless rows of trains. My ticket indicated the number for my designated train, but the problem was certain rows of trains had the same number. Fortunately, the guards noticed the confused look on my face and offered assistance in locating my train. I eventually boarded the train and started my journey.

I was still jet lagged from arriving in Thailand two days prior, so I dozed in and out of sleep during much of my train ride. Nevertheless, it was looooooong. After all, the train left Hualamphong at 2:45 p.m. and did not arrive in Butterworth until 1:51 p.m. the following day. Hence, I was on the train for nearly 24 hours.  Luckily, the train ride provided a wonderful peek into rural Thailand, especially as I went further down into the peninsula.

I slept on the upper bunk. All I can say is...thank God I'm petite! My head was *thisclose* from touching the ceiling.
Early morning view of southern Thailand after a night of sleep.

I only got to spend two days in Thailand all of which was in Bangkok. Seeing the lush greenery of southern Thailand made me wish I had stayed longer. Such is the strange paradox in traveling. The more places you go, the greater the desire to see the world. You're never satiated and if anything, it gets worse. But there's always next time!

The train stopped briefly while crossing the border to Malaysia. For some reason, the Malaysian authorities thought I was affiliated with two Indian passengers of Sikh origin. They took us in a small office and scrutinized our passports for quite a while. Maybe the uncertain look on my face screamed suspicion? I have no idea. After I clarified to the border guards that I was not associated with the other passengers, I quickly scurried to get my passport stamped and scuffled to get back on the train.

As the train entered Malaysia, I became excited. The flat green fields of Thailand gave way to lush vistas of palm trees and hills. The faces were getting noticeably darker, mosques started to mix with Buddhist temples, and more women were wearing the hijab.

Despite the change in scenery, after spending over 20 hours on a train, I was starting to get antsy. Fortunately, the train staff took notice and offered a small cup of fresh coffee.
Finally after nearly 24 hours, the train arrived in Butterworth.


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